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Conservation With Kate


Various national lockdowns as a result of COVID-19 have showcased the relationship between tourism and conservation: how dependent they are on one another, how fragile the relationship is, and how important.

In the absence of tourists, many conservation areas are severely under-funded. This applies to national parks and privately owned nature areas and wildlife reserves. Many of these places derive the majority of their income through tourism, whether it be a 5-star luxury lodge or simply through daily park entrance fees. Each year, approximately 950,000 tourists visit Kruger National Park, South Africa, every year, and over 400,000 visited India's Ranthambore National Park in 2019. In India's Ranthambore, an international tourist can spend up to £16/US$20 for one game drive. In Kruger, the daily entrance fee for South African citizens is R100 (~£4-5/US$5-6), and R400 (~£17/US$22) for internationals. Bottom line: the wildlife tourism industry can make a lot of money. 

Travel bans mean no tourists. No tourists mean this entire sector of income for these businesses is reduced to nothing. Many now have to rely on donations, in a time where people all over the world are receiving lower incomes than usual or no income at all. Donations at the best of times are an unstable and unpredictable source of income.


The relationship

The relationship between tourism and conservation is not purely economic. There are other benefits. Enabling people to witness wildlife in its natural state often sets off a passion for said wildlife. People who have experienced the best of nature tend to leave caring more for it than when they arrived. This kind of relationship is priceless. Equally, sending people home with a greater understanding and appreciation of the natural world and the threats against it can empower them to help, whether that be through sharing their experience with others, educating people, or through donating themselves.

There are of course, also drawbacks. Inviting thousands of people annually into natural spaces is bound to have negative effects on those spaces and the wildlife inhabiting there. Noise, light, plastic, litter, and vehicle pollution are just some examples of how humans disrupt natural environments. Many tourists are considerate of their environment, but some aren't. 
Invasive species is another major concern associated with tourism. International travel, like with the coronavirus, makes it easier than ever for species to move form one system to another. International travel by humans is a major contributor to the global invasive species problem. Tourists could transport bacteria or microorganisms into new natural systems they visit while on holiday, which could become invasive. 
There is an also ethical question surrounding tourism and conservation. A lot of safari parks or national parks have strict guidelines regarding treatment of the area and the wildlife that are well enforced. But this is not always the case. Restrictions can include setting a minimum distance a vehicle can be to an animal, a maximum number of vehicles at one particular wildlife sighting, vehicle restrictions regarding noise, restricted opening times to create hours where the park is empty and the wildlife is free of cars. In some areas, breaches incur heavy fines, but these are often guidelines, or not universally enforced. Certain parks might adopt them, where other don't. Parks that allow self-drive safaris are particularly hard to police. I have sat in traffic in a national park before at a wildlife sighting. This should never be the case. 

Overall, the benefits outweigh the costs for me. I think wildlife tourism is one of conservationists most valuable tools. I do believe many parks could do a lot better at enforcing more ethical practices and this is critical. But overall, without tourism, many conservation organisations wouldn't exist. Thousands would be left unemployed, and many reserves would be forced to close. What happens to the land and the wildlife then?



The impact of COVID-19

The coronavirus crisis has seen an unprecedented ban on international travel. Borders have closed, flights have been cancelled, and airlines are facing bankruptcy. While we can celebrate the grounding of flights from a carbon perspective, the impact of this complete halt on tourism on wildlife conservation in the developing world especially, is astronomical and dangerous. 

If you want to help, look for reserves who need donations to keep their business alive, to keep their staff employed, and to keep their wildlife safe. Endangered Rhino Conservation is a good example: their donations help fund anti-poaching efforts for private game reserves in South Africa.  
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I went kayaking along the sea front in Cape Town last week with Kaskazi Kayaks (who I very much recommend, and their Instagram is awesome). The underwater world in the western Cape is one full of all manner of ocean creatures and so I've been anxious to get out on the water. 

Well a kayak safari is a great way to see some of these marvellous animals. I saw a sun fish, penguins, seals, and dolphins. The seals and dolphins were having great fun playing in the waves, and you can get a great view from the kayak as you are so close to the water level. 

You also get an awesome view of Table Mountain and the city behind you as you move out to sea. 

It cost R400 (roughly £22) and we were on the water for at least a couple hours. I really recommend this as something to do one morning. 

I did take my GoPro, but a combination of the wide-angle not producing much more than the occasional black dot on a sea of blue, along with my over-excitement every time I saw anything, meant my photos from the experience aren't the best. So you'll have to go for yourself!




Photos by Kaskazi Kayaks. 

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I visited the famous Boulders Beach Penguin colony a few days ago after arriving in Cape Town. I have move out here for the next 14 or so months to study a masters degree in Conservation Biology at the University of Cape Town. 

Boulders Beach was one of the first things I wanted to do here in Cape Town because 1) I've never seen wild penguins before and 2) you'd have to be crazy to not want to see penguins on a beach. 

It's a really beautiful spot with clear and beautiful water, white sand, and a whole lot of penguins. The species in the African penguin. They're very comical birds, waddling up the sand and panting to cool themselves down sat on their eggs. But when they get in the water, they couldn't be more graceful. From the viewing platform you can see them swimming in the shallow water, and then bumble in the waves and start walking up the beach. 

You can walk along the boardwalk, and then go down onto a small section of the beach and spend the whole day there if you want - go swimming, sun bathe, or just watch the penguins. There are a lot more of them near the boardwalk viewing platform because people can't get on the beach there, and so they can nest there peacefully. 

Prices: 
R152 (roughly £8.55 or US$10.99) for a standard ticker
R39 for a South African resident (have to prove this with SA ID card/drivers license)

I think it's worth the R152. You can walk a small section of the board walk for free and you will most likely see penguins there to the side among the trees, but to see them in or around the water you need to pay. 

Although you will see lots of penguins there, they are an endangered facing great declines due to human encroachment on their habitat, over-fishing of their food, and the success of their main predator, the cape fur seal.





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First main piece of advice:

Go to the Philippines, and go soon. There is a crazy amount of construction going on, and so I think it’ll be unrecognisable in some parts in 5-10 years as it gets more touristic (like Bali now). 

Second most important thing: 

The Philippines is massive. We had to reduce our 3 week itinerary from 10 islands (ambitious) to 5. Getting around can take ages (especially if you choose the cheap and cheerful ways) and so we had a few “travelling days” so factor that in, especially if you have a flight out of the Philippines booked (and thus a deadline). Internal flights are sometimes very cheap (£20-30) and some are ludicrously expensive (~£100), and there is no obvious reason (like journey time) for the disparity in price. I got 4 internal flights (Manila-Siargao, Siargao-Cebu, Cebu-Busuanga, Puerto Princesa-Manila). I’m crying about my carbon footprint too, but flying is the easiest, sometimes cheapest, and sometimes only way to get around. In total I think I paid around £200 for all 4, and I think Cebu-Busuanga was the priciest. Also note for that flight you are only allowed 10kg of luggage (*eye roll*) so be prepared to load up your hand luggage or pay for extra weight (in my opinion one of the biggest scams out there). 


General things worth knowing about:

ATMs:

Most charge P200-250 for a transaction on top of whatever your bank charges, so try to use them as little as possible. The majority of ATMs only let you take out P10,000 at a time, so I recommend BPI (Bank of the Philippine Islands) which lets you take out more, and so try to use them to avoid paying the transaction fee multiple times. There is one at Manila airport and Cebu airport, one in El Nido, Coron and Puerto Princesa, and probably all over - just google your location before you arrive and check, and if not take the cash you need. When you arrive in the Philippines it might be worth getting out as much cash and you think you need. There are not ATMs everywhere, especially those that allow more than P10,000 so do plan ahead. Barely anywhere accepts card so you do need cash. 

Showers and toilets: 

You won’t always get hot water; it’s just one of those things. I would say 60% of the time, I had hot water and the showers were all reasonably powerful, but some were cold and weak but you just have to live with it. 
Toilets... they’re not great. Again, not much you can do but deal with it and move on. You can never flush toilet paper and some of them have manual flushing (bucket, cup, water.. you know the drill). So this is just a heads up: don’t expect great bathrooms.

Snorkelling: 

If you can, bring our own snorkel, or buy one at your first stop. They are cheap to hire on a day to day basis (P100-150), but added up, it’s cheaper to just buy one at the beginning of your trip. I took one but it broke and I resented the hire fee every time...



Tricycles: 

I know I am undoubtedly about to tell you something you already know but just in case.. Haggle the price. Don’t get mugged off. Prices are rarely fixed and so you can always negotiate. Having said that, in General Luna all tricycle journeys are set to P20 which is insanely cheap, so there is no need to haggle and it will literally, get you no where. But everywhere else, negotiate. Ask your accommodation what you should be paying for a journey, and then don’t settle for more (and say your hostel told you that price). And of course, agree the price before you get in and stick to it at the end even if they ask for more! To make life easier, make sure you agree to a price that you have the exact change for!

Filipino time: 

Time is just different there. Every pick up I arranged came early. Guides would say things like “our next destination is about 15 minutes away” and 2 minutes later we were there. I was there 3 weeks and I still don’t understand their concept of time. Just go with their flow. 

Manila airport: 

Not the horrible scary chaotic place the internet makes it out to be. If you do fly into Manila and have a transit night there, definitely download and use GRAB (basically Asian Uber). It’s the easiest and cheapest way to get around Manila and all you have to do is stand and wait outside the airport and can ignore the chaos around you (of metered taxis and people being collected - normal airport stuff). Side note: I recommend Tambayan hostel if you just want a good nights sleep in Manila. 
If you do fly out of Manila at the end of your trip after flying into Manila from somewhere else in the Philippines to then get an international flight (home or onward travel) then you will almost definitely arrive into a different terminal to the one you are going to fly out of. Again, internet scared the life out of me with this saying it would be the worst experience of my life and I needed 4 hours to do it and it would cost me money (I had officially run out of cash at this point so was contemplating exchanging my left over US dollars from Cambodia); but I did it! And I have lived to tell the tale, so hopefully I can help you not feel the fear I felt. 

I flew into terminal 3 (from Puerto Princesa) and then flew out of terminal 1 (to Malaysia and then onto London). The Internet was wrong (shock) and it was pretty simple. 
Collect your bags, follow the signs for terminal transfer, and wait for them to call the bus for your terminal (terminal 1 in my case). Get on the bus. It’s free (unlike what I had read). Then boom, go into the departures area and check in like every other airport. Obviously, allow time for this (but you don't need much more time than you would allow yourself to get through check in and security anyway). Do be prepared however for queues at security.
Is worth knowing however, Cebu is an international airport - if you have no plans to spend time on Luzon, and it’s not a huge price difference, fly in and out of Cebu because it might reduce the time and price of your internal travel. 

Language Barrier: 

Nothing is ever easy. Things that are simple are made infinitely more complicated by the language barrier. A lot of Filipino people speak excellent English but (arguably oddly) in my experience a lot of the people who worked in hospitality spoke very little or no English. I’m not complaining, as a typically useless English-speaking-only Brit, I have no leg to stand on, but be warned that it does make things harder than you might expect. 

If you haven't worked it out yet, I did all this with my lovely wonderful amazing big little sister!

Overall....

The Philippines is awesome. I am on my flight home as I draft this and am already planning my next trip (Bohol and Donsol are top of my list so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated). I think you could spend months here and not see it all, and you won’t get bored. Everywhere has its own charm, so do as much as you can without rushing anywhere. 
Just to reiterate: I do believe the sooner you go, the better. 
And one last thing.. despite what you might believe from my relentless commitment to instagram (@kate_sheridan07 - shameless self-promo), there is so much more to the Philippines than white sand beaches and bikinis. The snorkelling is some of the best I’ve ever experienced, the landscape is breathtaking, and the respect of the environment is inspiring. The Filipino people and government showcase a wonderful example or understanding the simple principle conservationists have such a hard time trying to explain: the natural world is worth more alive and protected, than it is dead and exploited. They understand that tourism will bring in more money than over-fishing, that plastic waste and other unnecessary pollution will damage the corals and the oceans, and so protecting them is in the interest of tourism, thus greatly benefitting their economy. Everywhere you go comes with a (cheap) environmental fee - the sceptic in me does wonder where this money actually ends up, but the optimist in me believes the government is really trying to protect the natural beauty of the Philippines. The closure of Boracay is a testament to this. I was so impressed by their commitment to reduce plastic consumption, conserve water, and protect the natural environment. 

I hope these blogs posts have been useful! 
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This is just a post summarising all my internal travel within the Philippines and so can give you logistics/prices/recommendations on the best/cheapest/easiest ways to get around once you arrive in the Philippines.

Two things to note before I get into the details:

  1. The Philippines is huge so allow time to move from island to island, or place to place. We had a few “travelling days” so factor that in if your booking a trip with a definitive end date. 
  2. I can only speak to what I did personally, but I hope this is helpful! For more on pricing for flights read the second paragraph of this post (click here). 


Flying: 

Some internal flights are very cheap (£20-30) and some are ludicrously expensive (~£100), and there is no obvious reason (like journey time) for the disparity in price. I got 4 internal flights (Manila-Siargao, Siargao-Cebu, Cebu-Busuanga, Puerto Princesa-Manila). I’m crying about my carbon footprint too, but flying is the easiest, sometimes cheapest, and sometimes only way to get around. In total I think I paid around £200 for all 4, and I think Cebu-Busuanga was the priciest. Also note for that flight you are only allowed 10kg of luggage (*eye roll*) so be prepared to load up your hand luggage or pay for extra weight (in my opinion one of the biggest scams out there). 


Once on the Islands..

Siargao:

From the airport to General Luna - there are vans outside of airport and they fill them up with people, so when it is full they go and call your hostel name when it’s yours. P300. Easy. 

From Cebu airport to moalboal:

Get a white taxi (not yellow as white is cheaper) to the Cebu South bus terminal - takes a whole 40-60min because of traffic - mine was P360. Then get the bus from there - just say you want Moalboal and you will be pointed to the bus - P140. Buy ticket on the bus. Easy as and a surprisingly comfortable affair. Is also dead cheap (much much cheaper than getting around Palawan!). When you get there just get a tricycle to your hostel (I paid P100 but have a feeling I was mugged off, but didn’t know how long it would take and that is only about £1.50 so is what it is). 

Busuanga (Coron) airport to your accommodations: 

Same as Siargao - vans outside the airport, give your hostel name, goes when full, drops you one by one. P150. Done. Easy. 

Coron to El Nido: 

There is a ferry everyday at noon. You can buy tickets from the travel shops around town and it’s P1760 (bit expensive if you ask me but cheaper than a P5000 flight). Now if you don’t get stuck on the island in a typhoon like I did, this should be easy. Just get a tricycle to the ferry port (P50-100 depending on where your hostel is but try pay P50). Be prepared for the ferry to be cancelled - it gets cancelled quite often for ridiculous reasons. When you buy your ticket at the travel shop, swap numbers with the person you buy it from and message them at 7am on the day to check the ferry is running. If your ferry is cancelled, you get priority on the next available ferry. I would also advise getting to the port early (you have to be there an hour early anyway) but people will be there to buy the remaining seats if there are any so if you are late your seat might be lost. 
If you get travel sick (like me) take travel sickness pills. It is a bumpy ride. 

El Nido to Puerto Princesa:

P500 van and again you can buy the tickets anywhere, including most hostels and they’ll pick you up from your accommodation. It’s about 5 hours but has a stop where you can buy hot or cold food if you want. Again, I recommend travel sickness pills to those of you who suffer from travel sickness. 
Also be warned that they fill the van. We had 15 people in an 11 seater van at one lpoint. They pick people up and drop them off as you go, and the expect you to share your seat if needed. It’s ridiculous and annoying and I would advice sitting at the back if this happens to you. You can however reserve seats (again, ridiculous) as I learnt when I was evicted from the front seat (where I feel least ill) as someone had reserved it so if you also prefer the front, request it when you buy your ticket (and maybe add that you’re not willing to share without a discount). It was a less enjoyable journey than the public bus to moalboal but it’s the cheapest option.
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I stayed in PP for 3 nights and 2 days. It was my last stop in the Philippines (typing through the tears). If you want my opinion, you only need one day here: go to the underground river and then leave. We did 2 in the hope to go to Honda Bay, but we ran out of money and so that didn’t happen, but we managed to quite happily fill our day..


The Underground River

It’s amazing. Go. 
It is a long day and (as is the Filipino way), the tour seems simultaneously overly complicated whilst being strategically organised. 
There are a lot of things that make it seem like it can’t be worth it. In the spirit of transparency, I will go through them, but as a geography graduate who has always admired Mother Nature in her infinite wonder, I strongly strongly recommend this UNESCO World Heritage Site as a must-see spot in the Philippines (and it’s something they are so proud of).
  • It’s expensive - I paid P2000 (just short of £30 - seeing the conversion to english money does make me weep a bit but I am still adamant it was worth it) for the day which included being picked up in an air-conditioned van from my hotel and dropped there after, lunch, the whole tour and everything that involves. That is the most I paid on any day trip in the Philippines with the only exception of diving. I was a bit baffled by this price because I read online it would be less (but after checking, these were from blogs in 2012 so either it’s increased, or I was royally mugged off but I everywhere I saw it was advertised at P2000). I know people who were put off by the price and I don’t blame them, but if like me, it’s something you don’t want to miss, just allow it in your budget as a pricier day. 
  • It’s an early start. I was told I would be picked up at 6.45-7am but in true Filipino fashion, my transfer arrived at 6.30am. 
  • It’s a long drive. Although it is technically in Puerto Princesa, from the city it’s about a 2/2.5hour drive. Travel sickness pills are advised (dodgy roads). 
  • Waiting. Now, I was told you wait around all day. I don’t know if I was just lucky, or whether people hideously exaggerated, but I didn’t have to do much waiting. 

    • What I was told would happen: when you arrive you have to wait for a boat to take you to the river. You are given a number and that’s your space in the queue. You wait for hours and then get the boat, and then have to wait for more hours for your river boat tour to start. You are encouraged to zip-line or paddle board in the mangroves in this time but it’s an additional price. You wait and wait and wait. 
    • What actually happened: we arrived, we waiting about 1.5hours for our number. We got a 5-10 minute boat to the river. We then got straight on the boat and the tour began. The 1.5 hour wait is not in a stuffy queue, but is next to a lovely beach and you can get a smoothie, relax, and we made some lovely friends with people in our group.
  • The tour itself is only 45 minutes. This does seem ridiculous given the travelling and waiting, but yeah just a heads up (it’s worth it). 
As Nike would say: Just do it. 
It’s beautiful. It’s unlike so many other places on Earth. It’s one of those natural phenomena that blows you mind: it shouldn’t be able to exist but yet it does. It’s worth it. 


Despite what I had hope, it was too dark for my camera to cope and so I have no photos of the cave!!

So, how did we kill an extra day in Puerto Princesa with very little money?

We went to Blue Palawan beach resort and paid P250 for use of their swimming pool for the day! It was actually the perfect way to end the trip - just relaxing and doing nothing before a long journey home for me and a long journey to Auckland for Anna. The staff were amazing, and no one was really there all day. We paid P120 for a tricycle there and the same back from our hotel - we had to do some serious negotiating on this price and our return driver tried to ask for P200 at the end (despite agreeing before the P120) so obviously we stuck with our agreed price but it was extremely uncomfortable. You can get food and drinks there if you want (but being a fancy resort it was very expensive so we did not indulge) but drinking water was free! 
According to google, a lot of the resorts with pools will let anyone use them for a fee - we messaged a bunch on Facebook to find the best deal but Blue Palawan was great so I would recommend it if anyone else wants just a pool day. 

Other things to do in PP: 

Honda Bay: P1250 (I think) for an island hopping day trip. We would’ve done this if we had the money, but have heard it is disappointing after Coron/El Nido. 
Nagtabon beach: apparently very beautiful and not too busy. It is about an hour from the city (and so we didn’t do it as the journey would be too expensive) but have heard it’s worth a visit! 

Where to eat: 

Have to say, we weren’t super adventurous. It was the end of our tour, and we weren’t huge fans of the city (we are nature gals) and so we just stayed around our hotel. Recommendations are:
La Terrasse - awesome food. Around P300 for a meal and P150-180 for a cocktail. Really good food and drinks, definitely recommend.
Eighty nine cafe: good breakfast and coffee. Blueberry pancakes for P150 are a great way to start your day, and opens at 6.00am so you can even go before the underground river. 

Where to stay: 

To be honest, I don’t know. We treated ourself to a hotel (called Island Stay Hotel - it was very nice) but was a bit pricey compared to everywhere else we stayed. It was our last stop and last time together for over a year (as we go our separate ways) so we just felt like being a bit fancy. I would recommend it but like I said, did cost a little more so might not be on every backpackers list (including mine if I wasn’t headed back to London the next day). 
Rizal Avenue is the “main road” so close to that and you’re sorted - is also very close to the airport. 
From there, tricycle to the airport is P50 (plus a possible airport entrance fee - again, not too sure on this as my transfer was included with my hotel room). 

Final thoughts:

For the underground river, I do think PP is worth going to. But unless cities are your thing, you do only need 2 nights and one day there. In hindsight, an extra day in El Nido would’ve been better for us, but we still had a great time! 
I took no other photos in PP hence this post is quite barren of colour - sorry!
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